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Well educated travelers have great offers of cultural
and scientific activities in Chile. The oldest mummies in the world
and the large lenses of astronomical observatories in the North;
the touches of poetic language of two winners of the Nobel Prize
of Literature, poets Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral to the hometown
of modern writer Isabel Allende; the magic of archeological sites
in Easter Island; Valparaiso, a world heritage city with fascinating
architecture and charming personal stories of the American artist
James Whistler; the English painter Thomas Sommerscales and many
other intellectuals who lived on its hills and narrow streets. The
scientific community is always impressed by the two years spent
in Chile by the then young Charles Darwin. In sum, there is plenty
for those who look for the roots and present culture of the countries
they visit.
a) The Chinchorro civilization
of Arica
b) The Museum-Homes of Pablo Neruda
c) Islands, culture and nature:
Easter Island, Chiloe and Robinson Crusoe Island
d) Museums in: Santiago, Colchagua
and Punta Arenas
......
The Chinchorro civilization
of Arica
The Chinchorro civilization of northern Chile stands
out for its legacy to history of the natural process and techniques
of mummification, which the scientific community has classified
as dating back to over 8,000 BC, i.e. the most ancient in the world,
pre-dating even the Egyptian mummies. Mummification was a religious
rite to honour the divinities of the heavens and of the ocean. The
San Miguel of Azapa Archaeological Museum keeps a permanent display
of a chronological sequence of the cultural practises of the region
from their first inhabitants to the present-day occupants, the Aymaras.
It maintains a complete exhibition of textiles, headgear, pottery,
ritual objects and agricultural and fishing implements of the coastal
zone as well as from the Altiplano.
The Museum-Homes of Pablo
Neruda
Pablo Neruda has been the interpreter of nature,
of history, of sentiments - mainly love - not only for Chile but
for all those in the world with that romantic streak which brings
out the best in men. His instrument of universal communication was,
and continues to be, poetry. His works have been translated into
all languages and several dialects, and the film "The Postman",
filmed in Capri, depicts part of his life and his messages of love.
The man known world-wide as Pablo Neruda was born on July 12th,
1904 in the city of Parral in Chile, and baptised Ricardo Neftali
Reyes Basoalto. At a very young age he moved with his father to
the rainy southern city of Temuco where he was educated.
During his lifetime, Neruda received various honours, awards and
honorary degrees, amongst these, Doctor Honoris Causa of Oxford
University (1966), the Chilean National Artist Award and the Nobel
Prize for Literature (1971).
Neruda died on September 23rd, 1973 and was buried next to his last
wife, Matilde Urrutia, at their home in the coastal resort of Isla
Negra.
Pablo Neruda has become, without a doubt, the leading Spanish-language
poet of the 20th Century, proof of which can be found in the incessant
pilgrimages of his followers to his various residences, temples
and guardians yet of his treasures, his collections and his poetry.
- "La Chascona", in Santiago
- "Isla Negra", in Isla Negra
- "La Sebastiana", in Valparaiso
"La Chascona", in Santiago
The 1971 Nobel-Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda’s
Santiago pied à terre is situated in the lively Bellavista
neighbourhood, overlooking the city centre. A series of small
buildings, rather than a single house, La Chascona has been meticulously
restored and now houses a collection of Neruda’s possessions.
Visitors are taken on a guided tour (Spanish or English) through
the house, where the history behind the furniture and possessions
is explained. The poet —considered the main poet in Spanish
language of the XXth Century— shared in this house an important
part of his life with Matilde Urrutia, his third wife
"Isla Negra", in Isla Negra
The best-known of Neruda's three residences, the
cottage at Isla Negra houses great part of the poet's private
collections such as the mastheads, sea shells, glass bottles,
African masks and his innumerable playthings such as the wooden
horse rescued by his friends from a fire in Temuco, his wooden
boat parked in the garden, and the locomotive steam engine
"La Sebastiana",
in Valparaiso
The house called La Sebastiana was inaugurated by Neruda on September
18th, 1961 after a long search which is reflected in a letter
to a fellow poet in Valparaiso, his friend Sara Vial. In it he
writes, "I am growing weary of Santiago. I want to find a
little house in Valparaiso, to live where I can write in peace.
It must reunite certain characteristics. It can't be too high
up nor too low down. It must be lonely, but not excessively so.
Neighbours there should be, but invisible, neither to be seen
nor heard. The house should be unique but not uncomfortable, airy
but solid. Not to big nor too small, away from everything but
accessible by public transport, isolated but near the shops. Besides,
it has to be a bargain. Do you think I can find a house like that
in Valparaiso?"
Islands, culture and nature
- Chiloe Island
- Easter Island
- Robinson Crusoe Island
Museums and Palaces in Santiago
There is little doubt that the city of Santiago
has improved the category of Museums available, though greater concern
on the part of the community with the quality of the exhibitions
held, whether they be permanent or itinerant.
- The pre-Colombian Art Museum
- Museum of Visual and Contemporary Art
- The Cousiño Palace
- La Moneda Palace
The Pre-Colombian Art Museum
This museum, housed in the former edifice of
the Royal Customs House which was built in 1799, was developed
on the basis of the private collection of the architect Don
Sergio Larrain F. who subsequently donated it to the city of
Santiago. The collection offers a glimpse of rare and valuable
examples of pre-Colombian art - derived from ethnic cultures
ranging from Mexico down to Chile - and demonstrates the cultural
development of ethnic civilizations such as the Mayas and Aztecs
of Mexico and the Yucatán province, the Tolita and Valdivia
cultures of Ecuador, and the Chinchorro and Mapuche cultures
of Chile. The collection of weavings, paracas, chancay and others
are exhibited.
Museum of Visual and Contemporary Art
The Museo de Artes Visuales, located in the
cozy Plaza Mulato Gil, in Santiago, was inaugurated in 2001.
It includes more than 750 pieces representing Chilean paintings,
sculptures and drawings from 1960 and onwards. This is a collection
of the work of more than 220 artists. This project is one of
the main private cultural efforts led by the art collectors,
Messrs. Yaconi and Santa Cruz. Artists like Roberto Matta, Nemesio
Antunez and other contemporary masters of Chilean paintings
are represented.
The Cousiño Palace
The Cousiño Palace was built between 1870
and 1878 by the French architect Paul Lathoud at the request of
Mr. Luis Cousiño’s widow, Isidora Goyenechea.
The Cousiño Goyenechea was a very wealthy family, owner
of Lota Coal Mines and the Chañarcillo Silver Mines as
well as the Cousiño-Macul Vineyard which still belongs
to the family.
In 1940, the Palace with all its possessions was put up for auction
by the family. After the inicial bid, the Mayor of Santiago, Mr.
Pacheco Sty made an agreement with the family to buy the property,
which, in other words, was given to the city for three million
pesos in municipal bonds, to be used as guest quarters for famous
visitors who come to Santiago for the purpose of celebrating the
4th Centenary of the city.
From 1940 until 1982, it was used as the residence of important
visitors but the practice was stopped after a fire in 1968 destroyed
the second floor. The fire prevented Queen Elizabeth II of England
from staying at the Cousiño Palace during her official
visit to Chile.
In 1977 the Mayor of Santiago, Mr. Patricio Mekis opened the building
as a museum. It was declared a National Monument in 1981.
Like an European palace, it comprises 12 rooms on the first floor
for different functions: the Golden Room used for the great balls,
the Music Room with the original piano, the Reception Room, the
Dining Room, Hall, the Weapons Room and the Picture Gallery .
All of them were decorated with materials brought from France
in the family’s cargo ships, with velvets, silk fabrics,
porcelain from Sèvres, Limoges and Meissen, furniture and
parquet hand-carved in walnut, American oak, ebony, German haya,
amongst others, hand-embroidered curtains and majolica tiles for
the walls and floors.
La Moneda Palace
By 1730, the economic position of the Dominion
of Chile was undergoing a deep depression. This situation resulted
in 1732 in a request from the Cabildo de Santiago to the King
of Spain for the establishment of a Mint House in the city. But
the Crown did not have the necessary economic resources to undertake
such a venture, so it was decided to leave the task to a private
investor. Thus, a wealthy Spanish merchant, Don Francisco García
Huidobro was appointed Permanent Treasurer, and for this purpose
he acquired a house located on the corner of Huérfanos
and Morandé, the Old Palace. Here, on September 10th, 1749
the first coin depicting King Ferdinand VI was minted.
After García Huidobro's death, the Mint House was removed
to the old Jesuit school located next to La Compañía
Catholic Church. However, the premises were inappropriate for
these functions, and in 1780 Governor Agustín Jáuregui
proposed to erect a building for this specific purpose. The Roman
architect Joaquín Toesca y Ricci, who had participated
in various public works for the Spanish King Charles III, was
commissioned to carry out the project.
Toesca chose the Carolino School as the suitable place for the
Mint House. The works began in 1784, and the following year the
materials required for the construction started to be collected
at the site: calcine from the Polpaico estate; sands from the
Maipo river; red stones from the San Cristóbal hill quarry;
white stone from Cerro Blanco; oak and cypress wood from the Valdivian
forests; Spanish hard-ware and ironware from Vizcaya; and some
20 different kind of bricks baked in Santiago for constructing
lintels, corners, floorings, frames, and the solid walls measuring
more than a meter in width.
Toesca did not see his work finished. He died in 1799. Agustín
Cavallero, an army engineer, continued his work. In 1805, with
some tasks still to be completed, Governor Luis Muñoz de
Guzmán officially declared open the Real Casa de Moneda
de Santiago de Chile, considered by some specialists to be the
best and most harmonic civic building in Colonial America.
With its pure Neoclassical style and Roman doric influences, the
building features a horizontal volume in a rectilinear composition
that communicates a sense of force and stability. The main facade
looks on to Moneda Street. The rooms —richly but simply
decorated— are distributed along transverse and longitudinal
axes that give way to various courtyards and fountains.
In 1846, at the suggestion of President Manuel Bulnes, the building
was designated as the Presidential Residence and seat of government,
though minting continued to be done until to 1922.
Through the years the building has undergone various modifications.
After 1930 the area surrounding La Moneda was subjected to remodelling
that enhanced the features of the south facade, resulting in public
squares facing both frontages and the Palace was surrounded with
austere buildings for public institutions. The last restoration
made was due to the distressfuldestruction the Palace suffered
after the military coup d'état in 1973. Carried out by
the Dirección de Arquitectura del Ministerio de Obras Públicas.
It aimed to reinstate full validity to Toesca's original design.
Today the Palace mantains the style, force and harmony transmitted
by its architect. This, together with the different functions
performed there, allows the Chilean people to acknowledge its
great patrimonial value.
Museums in Colchagua
In the context of the Chilean Wine Route, a visit
to the museums of the valley of Colchagua is a cultural treat to
be recommended equally to Chileans as to foreigners.
- The Colchagua Museum
- The Museum of El Huique
The Colchagua Museum
The initiative and years of patient search for
choice pieces on the part of entrepreneur Carlos Cardoen have
given birth to the Colchagua Museum and has gradually become
transformed into the best museum in the country.
Here can be found items of palaeontology, outstanding of which
are a wide range of fossils and an amber collection of fossilised
insects and vegetable matter which is considered one of the
best in the world.
The pre-Colombian art collection occupies the place of honour,
with pieces of the Valdivia, Chorrera and Tomaco La Tolita cultures
of Ecuador; of Chavin, Moche, Chancay, Paracas, Chimu and Inca
from Peru; and from Chile, of the Diaguitas and Mapuche cultures
but most especially of the mummies of the Chinchorro civilisation.
Pieces from the Spanish Conquest and Colonial era in Chile include
works of artists from Cuzco; and various examples of Spanish
doubloons depicting religious art. The post-Independence era
is represented by samples of personal items of leaders of such
stature as Bernardo O'Higgins and Blanco Encalada.
Other pieces worthy of mention are the innumerable carriages
of XIXth Century design and construction, the vintage automobiles,
items of agricultural machinery, a unique section dedicated
to representing the historical development of the winemaking
industry in Chile and, the most recent acquisition, a locomotive
train and engine.
The architectural complex comprising the Museum and the Hotel
Santa Cruz, together with the excellent vineyards in its environs,
makes the Colchagua valley Wine Trail and Museums definitely
worth a two to three-day visit.
The Museum of El Huique
The colonial house and museum of El Huique,
which was constructed between 1828 and 1856, can be found close
to Santa Cruz. This is a typical example of the architecture
of the stately country residences or haciendas of the Chilean
landed gentry, which were centers of great social, political
and cultural activity revolving around one family —in
this case, the Echeñique Errazuriz family.
El Huique forms part of the Chilean rural historical scenario,
being the country residence of the family of Don Federico Errazuriz
Zañartu, who was President of Chile between 1989-1901,
and who held social gatherings and political reunions there.
El Huique boasts 22 patios, which interconnect the various sectors
of the hacienda, such as the bedroom quarters, the salons and
reception rooms, the breakfast and dining rooms, gardens, kitchen
gardens, kitchens and service areas. The hacienda also has a
small chapel with impressive frescos and woodwork.
Museums in Punta Arenas
- Maggiorino Borghatello Museum
- Braun-Menéndez Museum
Maggiorino Borghatello
This museum houses a magnificent exhibition
of the habitat and history of the aborigines of the region,
as well as an excellent natural science exhibition.
It possesses very good cartography and photography, as well
as some very well-presented didactic material collected by the
Salesian Order in their missionary and scientific task.
The visit to this museum is an exhilarating experience. You
will see Antarctica, the history of immigrants, the oil industry,
the missionary and evangelizing campaigns, ethnographic and
anthropological material, and regional fauna.
Museum Braun Menendez
In Hernando de Magallanes Street, half a block
from the main square, you will find Braun Menéndez Palace,
designed by the French architect Antonio Beaulier in 1905. Mauricio
was Sara´s brother, married to Josefina Menéndez
Behety, a marriage that joined two big fortunes in the region.
Conserved with all its wealthy stylish European furniture and
tapestry, in the Regional Museum there is also some excellent
expository material on contemporary history
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Four pointed hat (Tiwanaku culture)
This
special interest mixes well with:
- Wine tours
- Gastronomy
- Birdwatching
- Opera and Ballet
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